Note: This is part of a series of articles on traditional foodways in southern Appalachia and pairs with a display on the 2^nd floor of the Transylvania County Library.

When it came time for a special treat, early Appalachians sought out or cultivated honey, berries, tree fruit, and sorghum cane. Maple trees used for syrup production require more cold than southern Appalachia typically has, and sugar cane requires more heat, so neither was produced in the region in great quantities.

HONEY

Beekeeping is an art with a long history, and traditions from Europe were brought to the Appalachian Mountains with early settlers. Bees create combs in hollow cavities of trees, and the earliest beekeepers noticed this and created ideal logs for bees to occupy. Black gum trees naturally grow with a hollow core, and so sections of these trees were often transformed into “bee gums”, a precursor to box hives. The hollow section would have holes drilled into it to support rods that gave the bees a starting point for building comb. A slanted lid to protect from rain was put on top, and the log was set well above ground level with a few drilled holes for entrance and drainage near the bottom.

Acquiring bees could be done by tracking wild bees and encouraging them to the prepared gum. Beehives are susceptible to predators such as bears and raccoons, pests such as varroa mites, and diseases such as colony collapse disorder; with the assistance of a mindful beekeeper, these threats can be mitigated. Beekeepers can give bees proactive medicine, protect hives from predators with fences, and give the bees extra food in sparse feeding months.

The flowers that bees visit to create honey can alter the flavor and color of the final product. Bees harvest indiscriminately from whatever flowers are available and in proximity to their hive, but there are times of year when one flower may be predominantly available, making the honey created by bees during that time more likely to have a specific, identifiable flavor and color, such as sourwood honey. Sourwood is known for being nearly clear, sweet, and slow to crystallize. Some people say there is no such thing as authentic sourwood honey, stating that they’ve never seen bees visiting the trees in bloom. It has been suggested that what we think of as sourwood honey is more likely from clover, which blooms at the same time. Others disagree and find it to be the best honey there is.

APPLE BUTTER

German immigrants who settled in Appalachia are credited with the introduction of apple butter to the region. No butter is in the condiment, which is closer to a fruit preserve than a dairy product. To create it, apples are peeled, cored and sliced to then be cooked down with spices and a little bit of water into a flavorful spread to top pancakes or biscuits, much like how one would eat a jam or jelly.

Apple butter was often used in a traditional Apple Stack Cake, a classic dessert in Appalachia. It’s made from many thin layers of cake sandwiched with apple butter or apples between each layer. It was a traditional wedding cake that was created by all of the attendees. Guests were meant to each bring one layer, and the cake was assembled at the event. The height of the cake was an indication of the popularity of the bride and groom.

SORGHUM MOLASSES

Sugar cane did not grow well in the southern Appalachian Mountains but sorghum cane did. It was grown for the cane stalks that were full of a sweet juice which could be boiled down into a syrup for sweetening. The cane stalks were cut, stripped of the tops and leaves, and then quickly taken to be milled before spoiling. The mill was a device set up to grind the cane and release the juices. A mule would be tethered to the mechanism and set in motion around a circle to power the mill.

The juice was boiled down and the foam skimmed off over time. The skimmings could be turned into candy, and the thickened juice was poured into jars and preserved. Molasses could be used in baking or as a topping in much the same way that either honey or sugar would be used.

BAKED GOODS

Pies and cakes were common desserts in Appalachia. Sometimes ingredients were limited and bakers got creative with recipes, such as custardy Chess Pie or the surprising Vinegar Pie. Hearth cooking was still part of early baking, and so finnicky, temperature sensitive desserts weren’t commonplace. Forgiving, adaptable recipes are the ones which have endured and been passed down through the generations.

Sweets and treats are a welcome part of the Appalachian diet and make times of celebration more special. Photographs and information for this column are provided by the Rowell Bosse North Carolina Room, Transylvania County Library. This article was written by Local History Librarian Laura Sperry. Sources available upon request. For more information, comments, or suggestions, contact NC Room staff at [email protected] or 828-884-1820.