Note: This is the first in a series of articles on traditional foodways in southern Appalachia and pairs with a display on the 2^nd floor of the Transylvania County Library.

Appalachia is a blanket term that technically includes a span of land from Alabama to upstate New York, though for this series, it will refer to only the southern Appalachian Mountains when using the term. This region, characterized by mountains and forests, had its own unique topography and challenges for early settlers of the area who adapted to living off the land out of necessity.

The isolation of early Appalachia meant that store-bought goods were infrequent and hard to come by. Settlers farmed the land, raised livestock, and ventured into the wild to obtain sustenance. There was an emphasis on long-term storage, as the cold winters meant that all food must be gathered and stored during the abundant growing season to last until the spring. Foods were chosen that had the ability to last over an extended time if properly prepared. “Stretch” foods were the first spring greens to appear which, though not as abundant or delicious as later season plants, helped to provide nourishment in early spring stretch out food stores so that settlers could last through the cold season.

When it comes to culture, foodways were brought from native lands. Many of the European immigrants to the southern Appalachian Mountains were from England, Ireland, Scotland, and Germany. Native American traditions and those of enslaved Africans were incorporated into a food culture that is now a melting pot of many cultures. This is reflected in the unique dishes of the area.

Colder winters and a mountainous landscape set apart these foodways from other southern states. The plants and animals available in the mountains also affect how and what people eat. Foods that did not grow well in Appalachia, such as sugar cane and rice, weren’t part of traditional meals, although they’ve since been incorporated into the larger modern definition of Appalachian cuisine.

A working farm had to include more than just a spot for crops to grow. The very structures on a farm would reflect the food needs of that property. Chicken houses, pig pens, smokehouses, and spring houses were all necessary parts of a functioning homestead.

The far distance that many settlers lived away from industrial areas and their products meant that a farm had to be as self-sufficient as possible. The concept of living off the land grew to include making things like barrels and pottery to create containers for storing food long-term.

Food was eaten around an agricultural work schedule. This meant starting with a larger meal meant to ensure that one’s energy would last throughout the day which was often high in fat and protein to accommodate the needs of consistent physical labor. A hearty breakfast that included bacon and biscuits is an example of such a meal.

Two food philosophy movements have revitalized interest in Appalachian cuisine: the “farm-to-table” movement and the “slow food” movement. Farm-to-table focuses on fresh, local food. This is an intentional practice for foodies now who wish to reduce their carbon emissions footprint by choosing foods that are not shipped as far, and which are thus fresher and healthier. The nature of isolated farm communities in rural Appalachia meant that they had farm-to-table built into their food systems. Slow food focuses on real, homemade food over quick, processed, convenient foods. The emphasis is on food that is healthy and priced to support the people who provide it. This too was part of earlier food systems.

Appalachia is a distinct cultural region with unique foods that have found their way onto the plates of many around the world. As the region itself continues to grow and welcome new residents, their traditions too will continue to influence and shape the Appalachian palate.

Photographs and information for this column are provided by the Rowell Bosse North Carolina Room, Transylvania County Library. This article was written by Local History Librarian Laura Sperry. Sources available upon request. For more information, comments, or suggestions, contact NC Room staff at [email protected] or 828-884-1820.