Note: This is part of a series of articles on traditional foodways in southern Appalachia and pairs with a display on the 2^nd floor of the Transylvania County Library.

Appalachian people lived off the land in more ways than one, and that included growing their food in gardens and orchards. Foraging from the land is seasonal at best, and so the security of a garden meant an abundance of food that could also be stored away for non-farming months in the winter.

Some common crops were part of the North American landscape when early European settlers arrived, even if they were already familiar to Europeans. The widespread use of tomatoes in Italian cooking and potatoes in Irish might lead one to believe that they were originally from those lands, but they were brought by explorers to Europe from the Americas in the 1500s. Other crops were novel to Europeans; peppers, sweet potatoes, blueberries, and pumpkins were all New World crops that were previously unknown to Europeans before the Age of Exploration.

Other crops were brought as seed along with settlers as they journeyed across the Atlantic to start a new life. Favorite plants for food and medicine made the journey along with settlers, and some plants became so naturalized that we’d struggle to not think of them as native plants today.

The food traditions of Europeans blended together with the foods and preparation methods of native Americans. Incorporating these new foods into their diet is part of what allowed early settlers to survive. Some of the new foods that were introduced to the European settlers are the very same ones that are highlighted at Thanksgiving, demonstrating that this new harvest was the key to their survival during those early scant years.

Those Appalachians who could afford slave labor also experienced food influences from Africa, as the enslaved people who were brought to North American brought foods and food traditions with them and often were the cooks in large houses. Okra, rice, yams, black-eyed peas, watermelon, collard greens, peanuts, and sorghum are all distinctive parts of Appalachian cuisine which originated in Africa. Methods such as deep-frying chicken and barbecued meats are often attributed to African Americans as well.

Orchards of fruit and nut trees and berry bushes were also cultivated to provide nourishment for Appalachians. Apples, cherries, peaches, and plums were commonly grown, as well as pecan and walnut trees, blackberries, blueberries, and strawberries. Some grains were grown but weren’t as prominent as potatoes and corn. Gardens usually included herbs for flavor and medicine as well as vegetables.

Farm harvesting activities sometimes led to social interactions, such as inviting neighbors to come help with stringing beans, shucking corn, or threshing peas. These tasks were often larger than one family could complete in a short time, and many hands make light work, as the saying goes.

Food gardens and orchards developed into an agreed upon way to do things in the mountains. Although each individual can make their own choices and mistakes, trial and error often led to insights about “the way things are done.” Sometimes, the way of doing would be passed down, but the “why” might be lost. When one studies the old way of doing things, it helps to hold in mind that there’s probably a reason why, even if you don’t understand it.

Planting by the signs of the moon is one such tradition – some gardeners swear by it, while others think it has no bearing on the success of crops. Those who do practice it often refer to the Farmer’s Almanac for the right days for planting and numerous other farm tasks. Those who follow it look closely at which zodiac sign the moon is in throughout the month and wait for the right sign to plant, harvest, weed, and cure the products of their land. Proponents say with confidence that firewood cut in the wrong sign will take longer to dry or that weeding done in the correct one won’t need to be done as often.

The rich tapestry of Appalachian gardens is a direct result of the varied people and cultures who settled there and found a way to eke out a living from the mountainous landscape.

Photographs and information for this column are provided by the Rowell Bosse North Carolina Room, Transylvania County Library. This article was written by Local History Librarian Laura Sperry. Sources available upon request. For more information, comments, or suggestions, contact NC Room staff at [email protected] or 828-884-1820.