Note: This is part of a series of articles on traditional foodways in southern Appalachia and pairs with a display on the 2^nd floor of the Transylvania County Library.

Early Appalachian settlers didn’t have the luxury of electricity for food preservation, and so they used innovative methods to inhibit the growth of harmful bacteria in food and keep it safe for consumption while maintaining flavor, texture, and nutritional value.

On a biological level, food begins to break down by an enzymatic process once the plant or animal dies. This can be slowed down by removing air or water, applying intense heat or cold, mixing in additives, or changing the pH.

DRYING

Removing the water from foodstuff slows microbial growth. It’s also one of the simplest and lowest effort means of food preservation. Foods such as pumpkins, sweet potatoes, corn, peas, okra, and apples would be cleaned, sliced, and dried. Some methods involved hanging the items from the rafters in the home, and others used sunlight to assist in drying. For any of these processes, it was important to prepare the food so that the parts which wouldn’t keep were removed, and what was left would dry at approximately the same rate, to limit the occurrence of spoilage.

BURYING

Sturdy plant products like root vegetables, cabbage, and apples were sometimes buried for preservation. This would have kept them limited in air and reduced the temperature, inhibiting microbial growth. A root cellar operates on similar principles, but is an open room-like environment, instead of closely burying items in dirt, sawdust, or straw.

PICKLING AND FERMENTATION

Pickling would preserve food in a number of ways. The salting process would create an environment unsuitable for bacterial reproduction and beneficial microorganisms would produce lactic acid and other antibacterial substances. The pH of the food item would be lowered, making the solution unsuitable for biological growth. The canning of pickled items would also create a vacuum and drive out oxygen, thus preventing microorganisms from thriving.

One benefit of this type of food preservation is that it uses vinegar, a mild acid. Calcium and some minerals are best extracted from plants in a vinegar solution, which dissolves them into a water-soluble form and makes those nutrients more bioavailable for human consumption. Pickling actually increases the nutrient availability, while also preserving the food.

Fermentation was a different process, where beneficial bacteria were added to break down foods and make them more digestible, as well as flooding the food item with these bacteria and not leaving resources for the bad bacteria to consume and grow upon. Sauerkraut is one of the most well-known fermented foods that is still consumed in a traditional Appalachian diet.

CANNING AND FRUIT PRESERVES

Fruits, peppers, onions, and flowers were all transformed into preserves. Jams and jellies provided flavor and nutrition, brightening up winter meals with a taste of summer. The high heat involved in canning kills microorganisms, and the vacuum seal ensures they won’t recover. The high levels of sugar in jams and jellies prevent microorganisms from growing – most preserves contain about 60% sugar making them an unsuitable breeding environment for bacteria. Popular canned foods in Appalachia included beans, corn, beets, tomatoes, and cabbage. Nearly anything could be pickled, and unique flavors like pickled watermelon rind and dandelion flower jelly are part of the Appalachian culinary palate.

CURING AND SMOKING

Hams, pork shoulders, and other meats were important to early Appalachian diets, but keeping the quantity of meat safe during the time it would take to consume it was a concern. Some began by curing, or coating meat with salt in order to draw out the moisture, making it a less hospitable environment for microorganisms. The salty flavor of cured meats like bacon was seen as a bonus and could even become part of the expected taste. Sometimes food additives would be used such as “saltpeter”, also known as potassium nitrate, in order to help the meat retain its pink color. These “nitrates” are not seen as healthy for regular consumption in modern times.

In addition to curing meats might also be smoked for preservation. Smoking removed water, heated and killed microorganisms, and added antimicrobial and antioxidant chemicals contained within the smoke which deactivate enzymes and repel insects. In modern times, it is recognized that smoking foods may also introduce carcinogens.

COOLING IN THE SPRINGHOUSE

Before the time of refrigeration, springhouses kept the temperature of food low so it wouldn’t spoil. Springhouses were often built over running water and lined with stone for coolness and set low in the ground to regulate temperature. These systems diverted running water from a natural source into a small shed, which would protect the water source from leaves and animals and could also be fitted with water channels and basins to create a cooler place to store food such as milk, butter, cheese, and eggs. Churning butter sometimes happened in the springhouse, as the cooler temperature helped butter develop more quickly.

PRESERVATION OVER TIME

Preservation became even more important on the homefront during World War II, as victory gardens and the resulting yields eased the burden of national food production and made it more available for soldiers overseas. It grew to become more of a hobby than a necessity, and ambitious homemakers took pride in the quality and flavor of their preserves, even competing in county fairs and the like to achieve notoriety as the creator of the best preserves.

Preserving food helped early Appalachians endure through the colder months when food was less available. Photographs and information for this column are provided by the Rowell Bosse North Carolina Room, Transylvania County Library. This article was written by Local History Librarian Laura Sperry. Sources available upon request. For more information, comments, or suggestions, contact NC Room staff at [email protected] or 828-884-1820.